Sealing rims

I put is just thick enough to cover the spoke niples, when it dries, its just like a rubber band glued to the rim.

I put all of the tube on there and let it cure for a week. It felt a bit soft but dry. I kept it in a really warm place too. When i took it to the tire guy it all went mush when he tried to get the tire on.
Doesnt it cure if it's too thick or do i need some kind of second component?

Ok, I feel ready for an update.
I got rid of most of the mush. Simply cut and pulled it off since it wasn't cured underneath. Removing it was sticky but easy. I used Ethanol (booze) (is that rubbing alcohol in the states?) which took it right off whether it was cured or not.
Next I spread a new layer on, as thinly as possible but making sure I get it all covered. Takes about 1/10 of a tube. I used a home made plastic putty knife a little wider than my index finger. Was perfect for spreading it eavenly.
After more than 24h and still being sticky, I couldn't help but wonder again if I should have used some sort of hardener. Checking the datasheet online I saw the following:
Description
3MTM Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 is a one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to
deliver strong, flexible bonds. It has excellent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It forms a
watertight, weather-resistant seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. In
addition, its flexibility allows for dissipation of stress caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking.

Reading on I also noted that the cure time were as follows:
Open Time (21°C) 30 hours
Open Time (32°C) 4 hours
Full Cure (21°C) 5 days

So now I'm having a heater blow warm air at it and keeping patient, oh so patient. Would like to get another layer on there too. We'll see.

The link to the datasheet is:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtlx&EO8TVEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--


Update:
After reading on I saw this:
- Alcohol should not be used in preparation for bonding as it will stop the curing process, causing
the adhesive to fail.

So take it easy with the alcohol. Hope my alcohol rubbing didn't mess upp the bonding.
One good thing is that in the tube, the stuff practicaly never cures so keeping you can try again later.

It says that it chemicaly reacts to water. Should I be spraying som water onto it to help curing?

Woohoo, it cured!

I put the rim with a heater in a cupboard. Sprayed the 5200 with water (although it repelled it). Then I put a can with warm water there. After 24 hours the can was half full, the temperature was just below 40 celsius, and it had cured!
Gonna add another layer and do the same. I'll try to post how long it takes. :afro:

Sorry, Im not getting notice that some one has posted. Dont know why.

Rubbing alcohol has a little oil in it and will stop the 5200 from sticking. If you want to smooth it out when it is all on, you can spray wd40 on you finger and it will not stick to it, kinda like with reg. caulking when you wet you finger and smooth it out. Alcohol leave a residue.

Sounds like your getting it worked out.

The curing of the second layer took about 4 days.
Ok, second layer on and I brought it round my tire guys (great proffesional people).
They put the tire on, everything hunky dory, when the tire blev! BANG!!!! Good new is that the 5200 seems to hold.
Bad news is of course that you cant get 205/70 - 15 in stores here. I ordered a Uniroyal instead since the they don't sell the grabber anymore.
Think he said it was around 3,5 bar it blev (50lb). Sounds like the tire was defective or he put alot more pressure in.
Either way I need a new tire and summer is delayed another week

I used PC-11 for sealing my rims...
It only needs to dry overnight.....and I have used it on military vehicles on test tracks and in the field.....it is tough stuff!!

https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/honda-shadow-f16/i-am-officially-on-dark-meat-t4112.htm

That tire is or was defiantly defective.
I have had as much as 115 lbs in one of mine trying to get it to bead.
You can tell by the opening that it is also, looks like it opened up right along a belt

Sorry forgot to make the link active....

PC-11 only needs overnight to dry...


https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/honda-shadow-f16/i-am-officially-on-dark-meat-t4112.htm

PC-11 sounds great! gonna see if I can find some here in Sweden for my front tire.
If the next tire doesn't mount, I'm considering going motorcycle tire again. Maybe I should do a 195/65-R15 though. They seem to be common.
Are they easier to seat then the 205/70-R15?

I get guys rims on a Mon. and put a coat on them, and the next day put the second coat on, andgive them back on Fri. and they mount or I mount, and they are back on the road on Sat.
Humidity and Temp. do play a roll in the cureing
I have also put a tire on when it wasnt cured as much as I like it, but it worked just fine.
I think I have said before, I have had 100% successes, doing this.
I am thinking about practiceing on some other materials to seal with, but I need a rim and a guinea pig .

PapiRauk wrote:PC-11 sounds great! gonna see if I can find some here in Sweden for my front tire.
If the next tire doesn't mount, I'm considering going motorcycle tire again. Maybe I should do a 195/65-R15 though. They seem to be common.
Are they easier to seat then the 205/70-R15?

Use lots of lube......took a little extra effort than a regular tire....
Never did a 205 so I have nothing to compare to....

I have mounted the 165, 185, 205 and the 205-70 and they all have taken 80 to 115lbs. to seat the bead.
The 205 70 was the easiest to seat. I had to break the bead on it last week, the rubber band inside moved and Charlie couldnt get air in or out, and when we put air back in it, it only took about 50lbs to get it to seat.

wayne wrote:I have mounted the 165, 185, 205 and the 205-70 and they all have taken 80 to 115lbs. to seat the bead.
The 205 70 was the easiest to seat. I had to break the bead on it last week, the rubber band inside moved and Charlie couldnt get air in or out, and when we put air back in it, it only took about 50lbs to get it to seat.

You guys didn't re-use the same air you took out??????

Na, I rotate the air and put in fresh every 10,000 miles.

Well, i finaly got a new tire on and it seated at about 4,5 bar (about 65psi).
The problem is now that it leaks!!
I think my mistake was leaving the rubber band around the rim, under the 5200 goo.
I need my bike so I told the tire guys to put in a tube. Maybe later on I'll get that sucker off and try again.
I'm putting on a Uniroyal rallye 4x4 street 205/70 R15 96H BSW (So) for the record.

Getting ready to seal my front - it occurs to me that spoke wheels require periodic maintenance for loosening spokes that stretch or settle. The 5200 doesn't sound like it would be a problem, being flexible, but that PC-11 is an epoxy, which I believe gets hard. I could see a problem if you had to adjust your spokes with something this adhesive, but I'm not sure. Perhaps the electrical tape band would suffice to allow nipple movement yet still seal?

Im not getting my e mail notification
Just happened to see your post.
I have 75k on my 1300S and have never touched a spoke on the bike. So, If your worried about that, dont.
You can always take it out, you must have not read some prior post.

Many guys go forever without touching their spokes. And I can take a pencil thru a parking lot full of bikes and show you about maybe 1 in 3 that have loose spokes that need tightening. I nearly lost the rear wheel on mine this year at around 11k on the bike. Yes, you DO need to check and maintain spokes. Ever so much more so on dirt bikes, but street bikes I've seen self destruct a few times over the years.
I'm wanting to be able to turn the nipples and not have to remove the goo - so I think a piece of tape over each nipple would suffice and let the goo seal around them. Gonna try it this morning.

I laced alot when I was moto-X raceing.
But have never had to on a road bike.
When I hit a peice of firewood that came out of the back of a truck, the bike launched in the air, hit it with both tires, didnt do anything to the front and bent the rear rim and broke a belt, that was the only time.

heh, that means your spokes were adjusted right!
Well, I got the goo on the wheel; WHAT A HEADACHE! I had the 5200 in the 3 oz. tubes. It evidently wasn't as stiff as whatever you used, because it kept trying to run on me, even when less than 1/8", so I had to keep turning the wheel over and over. To make matters worse, I rolled it over on my powerball buffer and had to redo the whole thing again.
SOoooo...I got the idea of spraying the whole wheel with FT1 quickwax and buffing it all off with a MF cloth - which kept it spinning until there was enough set to hold things in place. Sheeeeesh, this stuff takes a LONG time to set up!

I used 12 oz tubes, never ran at all. I have sealed 9 or 10 rims, mine came out hard, it was hard on the hands, and never ran at all.
Im wondering if you got a bad batch.

Doubt it. Got one tube from Depot and the other (very expensively) from a boat shop. Both were runny-ish. Today, it was partially setting, tack-free at least. I did some study and found the tip to put paper towels over it and wet them to speed up the curing, so I just did that. I need to put the tire on it tomorrow night to make a run Sat. morning. That's gonna be tight.

The last ones I sealed for a guy, he had 2 sets, he gave me one on a Mon. and he had it back on Fri. and mounted it, and the 2nd set he gave me 2 weeks later, and the same, they were rideing on Sat.


Which part are you doubting?