Sealing rims

No , The 1300C doesn't need any sealent , but i cleaned mine with steel wool and then soap and water before i started the install on my stock rim. good luck and welcome to the best forum on the net.


Horse

sseibert,

Welcome to the site. What "horse" said. Only the the spoke rims need to be sealed to go tubeless on the darkside. The C rims or mags DO NOT need to be sealed.


What tire do you plan on going with???????


.................bobby

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Hi Bobby -

Thank you for your input.

I'm not sure. I'm thinking the 205/70R15. I like the idea of a larger tire that will decrease rpms on the road. I have mixed feelings about the tread as shown in the thread. I like the knobby but also the directional. Any thoughts would be appreciated

It apprears that Dave may have a bent rim that is causing the wobble. He feels Cycle World in Tacoma bent it but has no way to prove it. He has suggested I contact Jon for mounting the tire.

I will advise my direction.

Thank you,

Scott

sseibert3 wrote:Hi Bobby -

Thank you for your input.

I'm not sure. I'm thinking the 205/70R15. I like the idea of a larger tire that will decrease rpms on the road. I have mixed feelings about the tread as shown in the thread. I like the knobby but also the directional. Any thoughts would be appreciated

It apprears that Dave may have a bent rim that is causing the wobble. He feels Cycle World in Tacoma bent it but has no way to prove it. He has suggested I contact Jon for mounting the tire.

I will advise my direction.

Thank you,

Scott

Scott,

I am running the 205/65/15 Douglas which is a non-directional tire and is my third darkside. My first and second car tires were a 165/80/15 VW tire and it also was a non-directional tire with no issues what so ever. You can't feel any difference in turning either way if that was you are concerned about? A lot of guys on here started with the 165's first and have had no issues what so ever with handling, ride, comfort, or grip compared to a motorcycle tire. It will smoke a motorcycle tire in it's handling and longevity any day of the weak.

So really what I am saying other than looks....I don't feel the uni-directional over the non-directional is a selling point one way or the other.

I think Dave is right.....because NO ONE else has had that issue before or since.


..........................bobby

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Thanx Bobby -

I guess the "look" will determine the design. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Knobby or ???

Thanks again for your input.

I did have problems with high speed wobble, but that was due to a peice of firewood that I hit, it bent the rim. everyones talking about getting the front tire off the ground, hell Ive had both off the ground at the same time It launched me pretty good, wife thought I was going down, guess I fouled her, she was seeing $$$$, life insurance I think


Now that I think of it, he may want to make sure the thre has beaded all the way.

Has anyone thought of trying Rhino liner? I have used that stuff for just about everything imaginable.

Joel

guitstik wrote:Has anyone thought of trying Rhino liner? I have used that stuff for just about everything imaginable.

Joel

Good idea, just run electrical tape over the ends of the spokes and then spray with Rhino liner.
That way if you ever have to adjust the spokes you can.
good luck,
Horse

I seen the boy's on occ sealing a rim here a while back. They were using a 3m product and it was black, but I could not get any details. They just made a putty knife from cardboard to spread it. I guess it held, or they said it did anyway

Just a bump so some guys can find the write up.

papa wrote:I seen the boy's on occ sealing a rim here a while back. They were using a 3m product and it was black, but I could not get any details. They just made a putty knife from cardboard to spread it. I guess it held, or they said it did anyway

Just saw this, they must have read my write up and copied it.
Black works good to, the las 4 rims I did were with the black 5200. Same stuff, just a diferant flavor.

I worked for a few years at Pensacola shipyard. We used 5200 like Toilet Paper (not for toilet paper ) Anyway, if I remember right it did need moisture to cure, but when it cured it was there for good. We glued down a center console one time with it and then took our crane and picked the whole boat up (29') by the center Console trying to get it off. Tough stuff.

Dont need moisture, infact the less humid the better, and warmer temps.
You can get it off, at the shipyards here on the coast, they use it for sealant around the shafts underwater and when they need to remove it, they heat it up and it pops out, but I dont think you want to get a rim that hot.
You can get it off, but it takes a little work.
It works like a big rubber band inside the rim that sticks.

Bump

Another bump for some guys.

Someone needs to make this a sticky thread.

sticky , sticky, sticky,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

And yet another BUMP

Sticky Sticky Sticky

I used a silicone sealant on the rear wheel, and it worked well but I didn't like how pliable the stuff was even when cured, so for the front I went with Permatex "the right stuff". Wish I had used it on both wheels. Its a rubber gasket material and is very sticky like tar and it cures almost immediately and works perfectly.
The only drawback is it cost about $18 a tube, but I did the front wheel with one tube.

Did the wheels last summer and have had no problems with them losing any air.

Sorry to say, but silicone contains a salt and will cause rust.
I know a guy the used silicone around his window in his van and within two years it was gone.

daves1300s wrote:Wayne, You posted a couple of times about trying some other materials for sealing the rims, did you ever find anything that works with a shorter cure time. I have had my tire on and off of the rim 4 times now and had leaking spokes each time. I was useing 3M 4200 since the cure time is only 24 hours and don't really want to go to the 5200 because of the 7 day cure but I am getting PO'd at this stupid wheel. Not to mention all the ride time I'm missing!!! So far I haven't even gotten to the part about getting the bead to seat.

David

I used clear silicone (the kind used to seal aquariums) for my front and rear...was aired up and ready to roll in two hours...Why I don't worry? Well... Ever consider just how much force the water in an aquarium puts on that thin seam of sealant?

In a tire you might have 40 or 50PSI at most and it's trying to push the sealant through holes (actually sealing it better as it cures) that it has no hope of ever going through (it takes almost 100PSI to force it through a tube the diameter of a tooth pick) so basically it ain't going nowhere.

It'll probably need redone when I change tires down the line but it's cheap and easy and pretty tough stuff.

wayne wrote:Sorry to say, but silicone contains a salt and will cause rust.
I know a guy the used silicone around his window in his van and within two years it was gone.

Can't be that horrible given it has been for years used in engines. What did he use window caulk?

Use if you want to, I just dont recomend it.
With the 5200, I have mounted 4 tires on the front of my bike and never had to reseal it.
Alot better product. I dont plan on ever doing it again, unless for some reason I have to take it out.

Hi guys!
Can't seem to find the pictures anymore. Can someone post them again please?

Which ones are you looking for?
Will these do?
Took me a while for me to find them, I thought I got rid of em.

yeah, the top one is the one I was looking for.
Gives a good view of how thick you put the stuff on and the valve stem.
Thanx alot!