Car oil vs Bike oil
+16
Fly
GEARHEADFLA
Fatwing Chris
crank
grumpybutt
aries44109
rmccutchan
coldweatherfreak
lj birdman
MorePowerWes
wayne
LarryRyan
smokey2255
rrounds
quadancer
Grinch
20 posters
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Re: Car oil vs Bike oil
It still amuses me that this thread continues and isn't just forgotten. It depends so much on riding style, V-twin vs other bike engines, weather and distance of rides. Any quality oil of the correct viscosity is the right one for you bike, and oil changes depend much more on riding conditions and length of rides than anything else.
That being said, I prefer synthetic oils because of cooler conditions in my area, as synthetic oils lube much better when cool and before engine heats up. They are also less damaged by extreme heat such as riding in the South West.
That being said, I prefer synthetic oils because of cooler conditions in my area, as synthetic oils lube much better when cool and before engine heats up. They are also less damaged by extreme heat such as riding in the South West.
Re: Car oil vs Bike oil
if every one listened to the maufactures suggestens we wouldn't be goin darkside everyone has their opinion and from what ive read mostly good results. a lot of oil is manufactured by the same company but have different labels . like walmart oil and advance its bought n bulk at the best price
lj birdman- Number of posts : 88
Age : 58
Location : fl
Registration date : 2011-06-06
My oil
I've ran castrol 10w40 synth for four years,,,,no issues,,,,no problems,,,,it's all ill use now,,,get it at advance when on the oil special 5 quart jug and pure one filter (99.9 filtration) $31.99,,,,bike continues to run beautifully!!!!!!,
Vtx brez- Number of posts : 1
Location : kentucky
Registration date : 2011-08-24
The wing is a car...
All water cooled wings are just car engines on 2 wheels.
6K red line, Under 200 Ft/lbs torque
Now the question is on the tranny - but hey -
From what I have read, the shear pressures are well within the specs of the likes of Mobile 1, Amsoil, Pensoil, or other main brand - for a GL1800.
Personally in my bikes (currently a 2012 GL1800 Navi), I run Mobile one, a high quality filter, and I check (cut filter) every time. In my Harley, I ran Amsoil as the high temp tests were better than Mobile 1.
But the bottom line is - if your bike is water cooled and had less than a 8K red line - you're good with "high quality" car oil.
...gene
6K red line, Under 200 Ft/lbs torque
Now the question is on the tranny - but hey -
From what I have read, the shear pressures are well within the specs of the likes of Mobile 1, Amsoil, Pensoil, or other main brand - for a GL1800.
Personally in my bikes (currently a 2012 GL1800 Navi), I run Mobile one, a high quality filter, and I check (cut filter) every time. In my Harley, I ran Amsoil as the high temp tests were better than Mobile 1.
But the bottom line is - if your bike is water cooled and had less than a 8K red line - you're good with "high quality" car oil.
...gene
genedjr- Number of posts : 50
Age : 67
Location : Colorado Springs
Registration date : 2013-11-13
Re: Car oil vs Bike oil
Hello;
Probably answering an old forgotten post but;
IMO, I have had/owned/rode many bikes in my life, everything from old
cranky sportster harleys to European brands and the quicker then greased
lightning Japanese crotch rockets.
Ever since I was old enough to understand and change the oils/filters myself
I have used Castrol oil's ( your average everyday engine oils )
The system I have settled on is;
In the spring, change the oil to a thinner grade but nothing thinner then 10/30
In the early summer the oil changes to a 10/40 or 20/40 grade
In the heat of summer the oil changes to a thicker mix of 10/40 and a 20/50 or 2
In the fall or late summer I revert back to the springs oil type and
change it once before bed time in the winter.
(all the above with a new filter)
(Change it a little more if you clock up the distances,
a little less if your strictly a weekend rider)
NEVER once did I have an issue with anything oil related
(except for the harley's should have invested in either a
cat litter corporation or an oil corporation )
I have a basic thought;
If you like your ride, change the oil often enough and ride in a respectable way
and you should have no issues either (like me) with oil related gremlins
Don't buy the oil cause it says you should buy it (or your friends).
Buy the right oil at the right price that works for you and your riding (not your friends rant).
Cheers
Khuts
P.S. don't forget to actually "check" your oil levels for where they need to be
my present bike is a Kawasaki Vulcan 2 litre and if I were to keep it at the
"manufacturers level" I would not be able to ride as I would be blowing more oil out
then able to keep in. So my bike's dipstick has been re-calibrated to a realistic, optimum
level. Which I have had to do before on other bikes.
Probably answering an old forgotten post but;
IMO, I have had/owned/rode many bikes in my life, everything from old
cranky sportster harleys to European brands and the quicker then greased
lightning Japanese crotch rockets.
Ever since I was old enough to understand and change the oils/filters myself
I have used Castrol oil's ( your average everyday engine oils )
The system I have settled on is;
In the spring, change the oil to a thinner grade but nothing thinner then 10/30
In the early summer the oil changes to a 10/40 or 20/40 grade
In the heat of summer the oil changes to a thicker mix of 10/40 and a 20/50 or 2
In the fall or late summer I revert back to the springs oil type and
change it once before bed time in the winter.
(all the above with a new filter)
(Change it a little more if you clock up the distances,
a little less if your strictly a weekend rider)
NEVER once did I have an issue with anything oil related
(except for the harley's should have invested in either a
cat litter corporation or an oil corporation )
I have a basic thought;
If you like your ride, change the oil often enough and ride in a respectable way
and you should have no issues either (like me) with oil related gremlins
Don't buy the oil cause it says you should buy it (or your friends).
Buy the right oil at the right price that works for you and your riding (not your friends rant).
Cheers
Khuts
P.S. don't forget to actually "check" your oil levels for where they need to be
my present bike is a Kawasaki Vulcan 2 litre and if I were to keep it at the
"manufacturers level" I would not be able to ride as I would be blowing more oil out
then able to keep in. So my bike's dipstick has been re-calibrated to a realistic, optimum
level. Which I have had to do before on other bikes.
Khuts- Number of posts : 27
Location : Ontario, Canada
Registration date : 2011-04-28
Re: Car oil vs Bike oil
rrounds wrote:In the VTX I would use Rotella 15/40, I have found that the 15/40 doesn't shear as quick in my bike(VT1100-T) as the Rotella T6 5/40, another good oil is Delo 15/40. I haven't used motorcycle oil's in 30 years(waste of money) in any of my bikes(dirt and street) and they all have/had wet clutches.
ROD
First order of biz,..Hello All. My name is Doug.
I've Been riding motos for 50 years. Have had my VTX 1800 C since '02. Some may know me from the 'Oa or Café.
Re' Oil,...I've been using Rotella for about 10 years now. Never any problems.
I've been Been running a Khumo rear tire for a few years now I bought at a used tire store for 20.oo. This after years of running the Bridgestone 200s for years. The CT is GREAT. I've put about 16K miles on it and have run it close to wot on I-95 several times. Never a shake or wobble. The downside is the twisties in NC which I visit every year. The CT ain't so great there so, the Khumo does have its limits. Next CT will be of a rounder profile.
That said,....always ride within your limits and try to obey the Law.
Duug- Number of posts : 9
Location : Florida
Registration date : 2015-02-20
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