Run Flat or Not to Run Flat that is the question.

OK.... I have recently mounted a Michelin Primacy Alpin PA3 205/55/16 on my 2011 Harley ultra classic. What I ordered was the Primacy Alpin PA3 ZP. I am satisfied with the way it rides and handles. HOWEVER, it was suggested to me to run the ZP. Which, by the way, are discontinued. The guy who monted my tire is looking for one and thinks he has found one. BUT.... before I mount it up I want some feedback on why OR why not to run the run flat. I am interested in the opinion of those who have run both. Thank you in advance for your input!!!!

Here is a copy and paste from one of my earlier posts.

Here are my thoughts on run flats. I'm not a tire engineer.
A runflat tire is safer because it allows you to maintain control to get slowed down and off the road. Although a TPMS system is advised I don't use one. As with any tire I've had on my bikes I can feel a difference in the ride when the tire is low. I check my tire pressures daily and carry a small 12 volt compressor while on the road. I've never heard of a runflat on a bike that blew up suddenly or disintegrated suddenly. I've heard of people riding up to 300 miles on a flat and the tire was coming apart when they finally discovered it but the main point is the tire stayed on the rim and they made it home. I don't believe a non runflat would do that.
After my first runflat wore out I tried a little experiment. I deflated the tire and went for a ride. At slow speeds the bike wobbled a bit but I had full control even in turns. Straight line on the highway the faster I went, the less noticeable the flat was. I am guessing this is because centrifugal force had something to do with it. I took it up to 65 mph. I rode a total of 40 miles with no adverse effects.
Granted this was done on a GoldWing so I can't comment on any concerns like belt clearance and wheel design as far as the bead goes.

What are you calling "full control"??? Do you RIDE the thing or are you generally flower sniffing in the curves? I sure hate to be the one to find out that
my peg-draggin' funday is sliding me down a ravine because i didn't know I was riding on a flat! I think you've given bad advice, even if you personally
haven't heard of one blowing out.
I do think you have a leg up though, checking pressures daily; most don't.

Full control is just that. I was able to keep riding the bike in curves without the ass end wallowing around. I was able to stop the bike from 65 MPH with no problem. I've had flats on regular MC tires and the bike wobbled so badly I went down before I could get it stopped.
All I'm saying is whether I am riding agressively or not I would rather have a runflat beneath me for the stated reasons. Like I said people suggest a TPMS so you have some warning of low tire pressure.
The guy asked for opinions and I gave him mine. Maybe when you get some experience you can offer him yours.

The experience I mentioned is the one I'd rather not learn by.

Have run both on the back of my Wing (Michilen Aplin Pirimacy....? spelling) I've run the R/F in 195 and the non-R/F in 205. The only difference I could tell was in the 10mm width difference.

I'm not going to ride a 1,000lb motorcycle with a flat tire so it didn't matter to me which one I went with. Just tried both for kicks. Got 20,000 miles from each.

Double Dark for Life.

One of these days, someone is gonna design a stem cap with an adjustable pressure sensor - like you'd maybe twist a ring around to your preferred
pressure, and if it drops below that, a red indicator would show up? That would be killer.

quadancer wrote:One of these days, someone is gonna design a stem cap with an adjustable pressure sensor - like you'd maybe twist a ring around to your preferred
pressure, and if it drops below that, a red indicator would show up? That would be killer.

That would be great wouldn't it?

DR60 GREG here we ride a 14 FLHTCU 2- up aprox. 300 lbs. / plus 2- 6lbs. dogs in a Kuryakin pet palace 3 bags full of wife and my crap. we avg. 30k a yr.( all seasons ) and have been using the Bridgestone BT-45 Rear tire up front ( recommended by a Goldwiger ) and it was fine until a 3" split opened around 12 k and still had 4/32 nds .of tread left . i bought on line from a crap site (lesson learned) Bridgestone could/would not help replace. we bought the Bridgestone Drive Guard RFT last year and got 20 k before replacing it still had 4/32nds. on it. size 205/60 x 16 The wife likes the smother ride and that it does not let the bike shift as much on tar snakes. the wet stop/start traction is as good as dry with a commander ll And, after a rainy day 28 ft. panic stop ABS assisted from 50 ft. we are never going back to MC tires not to mention my stupid trying some "fire flies" (china valve stem LED"s ) that let all the air out of the rear RFT on the TN/GA border. on Sunday. we rode home 74 miles at normal hwy speed (after 2 mile test) at 45 mph hope this helps the RFT costs around (104.00) 87.00 and 16.00 shipping then i take to Walmart and have installed on rim I take off my self have them throw in a 4 oz. bag of balance beads from O Riley 2 oz. on front mc tires. i have 138.00 in a rear tire that will out perform / out last & not go flat and come off the rim. & get 3 x the miles.