Shaft Rub

Getting a bit of shaft rub and while I don't think its a serious issue I want to resolve it.

When I mounted the tire it had a good credit card plus of clearance but as its broken in and loosened up it is now rubbing slightly.





The tire is a General Altimax HP 205/60R16 so its not an unknown one and I'm running 37lbs.

I've seen comments on putting a flat spot on the shaft cover but as its a structural part of the swing arm I'm just a little leery of doing that. I LOVE the way this tire is handling but I suppose try a different one like a Potenza but the specifications show they're all pretty much the same width...

Thoughts?

Go up about 5 psi on your tire and see what happens? Remember all tires are NOT created equal. Depends on the date and where it was manufactured to what specs you get..including motorcycle tires.


.................bobby


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are you sure it's on teh shaft and not from the lip on part of the inner fender brace? Just wonderin... the "lip" can be moved, the tire, rim and such are pretty much fixed in place and since almost no-one has this problem with that size it's worth askin...

nodakbassmaster wrote:are you sure it's on teh shaft and not from the lip on part of the inner fender brace? Just wonderin... the "lip" can be moved, the tire, rim and such are pretty much fixed in place and since almost no-one has this problem with that size it's worth askin...

Yeah, I'm sure its the shaft. I also don't see any physical defects in the tire that would indicated belt separation although there is a slight v notch from the belt seam which is normal. If I had found a defect I could get the tire replaced under warranty but they're not going to replace it cause its 1/8 to 1/4" wider than it should be.

I may haul it in and have it looked at anyway and if they find nothing wrong with it I can have them throw something different on there if I have to. Hate to have to break in another....

I have the same tire in 215, all I needed was a slight flat spot on the swingarm, it doesn't affect anything, and can't be seen with tire on, but I wouldn't think you'd need it with a 205. Double check your inner fender brace for rubbing, it may only be off center from factory, mine was way off, I just loosened bolts, held it centered and retightened. Good Luck

Dan wrote:I have the same tire in 215, all I needed was a slight flat spot on the swingarm, it doesn't affect anything, and can't be seen with tire on, but I wouldn't think you'd need it with a 205. Double check your inner fender brace for rubbing, it may only be off center from factory, mine was way off, I just loosened bolts, held it centered and retightened. Good Luck

I'll look into putting the flat spot on the inside of the shaft but am also thinking more seriously about taking the tire back to the shop and having them check the runout on it.

I ground down the inner rails, too, just in case - did that before I put the tire on. I also know its the shaft because I can put the bike on the lift and spin the wheel and see it and hear it squeak And if I spin it with the wheel with a credit card there it will spin almost 1/2 turn then force the card out which is why I'm thinking the sidewalls are not parallel with the bead.

Tire seperation,bent wheel,bad wheel bearing.These are the only things I can think of that would cause this problem.

Pumped it up to 41# and went for a 2-up 100mi and that seems to have improved the clearance. But it rides rougher than a cob having gotten used to 37#. I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if how much I can drop the pressure before it becomes more pronounced.

I don't know that any bearing wear (maybe the flange bearing?) would play any part in side to side movement of the wheel but I have full bearing sets that I'm planning on putting on anyway. I did put on a 1300 final drive though I checked the spacer collars and they are the same Honda part number... but I'll measure them just in case one is a bit short.

Thanks for all the feedback!

If your outer bearing busted it could cause the wheel to cock to oneside.If it wasn't rubbing when you installed it,I wouldn't play with it much any change that would cause it to start rubbing is not a good synereo. RIDE SAFE Larry S.

Pointman wrote:Pumped it up to 41# and went for a 2-up 100mi and that seems to have improved the clearance. But it rides rougher than a cob having gotten used to 37#. I don't know that any bearing wear (maybe the flange bearing?) would play any part in side to side movement of the wheel but I have full bearing sets that I'm planning on putting on anyway. I did put on a 1300 final drive though I checked the spacer collars and they are the same Honda part number... but I'll measure them just in case one is a bit short

My tire rubbed more with higher pressure, I'm good with 27 psi. Flange bearing won't affect it but a really bad wheel bearing could, not likely though. Axle spacers are all the same. Do you have the 3" long, distance collar/axle spacer inside the final drive? You usually need to swap it over from your old one.

I was wrong, the rub line hasn't changed at 41psi.

Which is mixed as I don't like the ride at that high pressure. I've got rides on Saturday and Sunday so on Monday I'll pull the wheel off and flatten a small area on the shaft cover.

I was thinking of using a light hammer against the large flat side of a breaker bar against the shaft cover..... Any tips on the best way to create the flats?

Dan wrote:My tire rubbed more with higher pressure, I'm good with 27 psi. Flange bearing won't affect it but a really bad wheel bearing could, not likely though. Axle spacers are all the same. Do you have the 3" long, distance collar/axle spacer inside the final drive? You usually need to swap it over from your old one.

I'm using the same 3" spacer that came in the new 1300 final but the fiche shows its the same partno (42625-MCH-000) even between the different years (1300 final was new).

But since I'll have to take the wheel off (I really hate taking the wheel off) I'll swap them anyway.

Just thinking aloud... I wonder if it would work to take the spare spacer to a good welder and have it lengthened, then cut it so that it's a 1/8th to 1/16th longer... the final drive engagement certainly should be able to spare that?

read through this first:

https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/vtx-1300-tech-f11/horseman-swingarm-mod-215-t1137.htm?highlight=swingarm

then look at the draft and how it was made.
then all you need is just a little flat spot and nor a dish like i did.
I hope this helps, if you any questions just ask.

Good luck,
Horse

horseman8m wrote:read through this first:

https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/vtx-1300-tech-f11/horseman-swingarm-mod-215-t1137.htm?highlight=swingarm

then look at the draft and how it was made.
then all you need is just a little flat spot and nor a dish like i did.
I hope this helps, if you any questions just ask.

Good luck,
Horse

Nice write up, I know how I'm spending Labor Day!

I'm glad we could help .
Just one word of advice , tie it down to your stand or motorcycle jack before you start using the hammer.
and paint where you hit to keep it from rusting.
good luck,
Horse

OK so I couldn't wait until Monday...

I don't know why I was worried about structural integrity - that shaft cover is HARD!!

I finally found success with a long section of re-bar and some patience. Looks like I've got 3/16" clearance, maybe 1/4".

I'll see how it looks after a ride tomorrow....

Thanks for the writeup Horse!!