Tire Changing Troubles 1300R

Hey all,
After much use of expletives, sweat, strength and finagling, I finally got the wheel (GYTT 205-70-15) back on.
The main challenge was getting the wheel over far enough to allow the spline to clear the plastic shroud of the gear case
and allow it up into the housing. The Disc Brake Rotor was hitting the muffler support arm that is bolted to the frame and preventing further travel to allow enough clearance for the spline to get past the shroud. I feared scratching the disc brake rotor while trying to move/force it over far enough to allow the spline to clear the shroud. The outside bottom of the plastic shroud got buggered up a bit from the spline, but is in otherwise sound condition. The manual did not say to move/loosen that offending muffler support arm and I didn't want to chance knocking the bike off the stand because the bolts seemed to be on there pretty tight. Someone suggested taking the shocks off to ease re-installation; I did, but I'm not sure if it helped or made it worse.
Even canting the the wheel over a bit didn't easily allow the necessary clearance for the spline to clear the gear case shroud because the disc brake rotor was up against the muffler support arm. Much perseverance and finagling finally allowed the the spline to clear and enter in to the drive gear housing.
Once the wheel was on and engaged into the drive gear, there was no difficulty putting everything else back together;
the shaft went in smoothly, the caliper presented no problem (even with the pads still in) and the stopper pin bolt and clamp bolt went on without effort.
No left over parts or bolts is a good thing.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? What did I miss? Should I have loosened/removed the muffler support arm?
ALSO, I didn't have any Moly Paste so I used Lithium grease; Can I let it go for a while or do I need to remedy it right away?

I don't remember this much difficulty in changing the rear tire on my PC800; I didn't even need a jack since it has
a center stand.

Now I need to ride for a while and find the right Tire Pressure; 41PSI seems to shake the bike a bit at 80MPH plus

We had to do the same thing to charlie ds. You did good. It does help to have an extra hand to push or pull.

Welcome to the dark side.

I would not go too long with the lithium grease. i tried it. and it did not stay in the splines. i pulled the wheel aprox. 5k later and the splines were starting to rust. I would find some moly paste somewhere.
another method for installing the rear wheel is to remove the final drive. there are only 4 bolts and the shock mount. and it comes right out. try to leave the drive shaft in the shaft tube. as it is sometimes difficult to stab back in there if you pull it out. put your tire under the fender have your bike just high enough to roll the wheel and final drive into place. then bolt it all up. it may not be easer. but it will keep things from getting scratched up. Good luck Griz

I had similar issues putting the tire back on my 1300R. I loosened the muffler bracket and the issues were resolved! The tire went back in very easily once I did that. It was a beast until then.

I used moly paste and would highly recommend it.. I don't think the grease will last very long in that application.

I just use high temp. grease and have for 65,000 miles, and I bet mine is just as good a shape as the guys useing moly.

GarMan wrote:I had similar issues putting the tire back on my 1300R. I loosened the muffler bracket and the issues were resolved! The tire went back in very easily once I did that. It was a beast until then.

Just loosened the two bolts or did you remove one or both?

I removed one of the bolts and losened the other one. The bracket then just droped down out of the way. Did you remember to turn the muffler bolts around?

Jerry

jedishon wrote:I removed one of the bolts and losened the other one. The bracket then just droped down out of the way. Did you remember to turn the muffler bolts around?

Jerry

Thanks Jerry,
Getting that muffler bracket out of the way will make things a lot easier. I don't look forward to repeating the process, but since I shoulda put the moly paste on the spline, I guess I'll be busy doing it this weekend.

Loosening that muffler bracket should go in a 'sticky' as well as the note about turning the muffler bolts around,
I just used a spacer since I had put on a Roadhouse 2>1 previously. The bolt threads barely go past the nut,
so I don't think it's a problem, but turning them around is a good point.

By doing it that way it goes a lot faster. If you take off the old moly paste and put on new every 10,000 miles you can get to a point where it will take you easly less than an hour.

Jerry