I finally took the plunge ,new darksider, 205/70/15 GYTT

I've been reading all I could get my eyes on here on the darkside. I want to thank all of you that take the time to share your expieriance, and answer questions
for people. I decided to go with the 205/70/15 GYTT. Even just makeing that decision was difficult. Ok, get this,I thought I'd be happier with a 195/60/15 thinking the smaller lower profile tire would handle better and wobble less. I ordered it from tire Rack. Before it even hit my door I changed my mind. I read a newer thread where a darksider said he changed out his 195/60/15 for a 205/70/15 because the other one was so small it made his bike rev to high at interstate speeds.
He was running a 1300 final drive , geared higher than my 1800 FD. SO I called Tire Rack for a return # and ordered the 205/70/15.
My bike is the 2003 1800S with 15" spoke rear wheel. I sealed my spoke rim with the 3M 5200 material. Thanks to all that posted"check your flange bearing
whenever you pull the rear wheel"I checked it and yes it was bad. Grindy and rough. I read that it's better to install american made bearings so i ordered them
Tues. WOW , $66.00 each for made in USA bearings. But I figure my life is worth it and besides I won't have to pull my rear tire for about 80,000 miles, right.
Well it probably won't be that long , but not for a long time anyway.
Well I took my CT and rim to a tire place that works on mostly farm and truck tires. I figured I'd have the most luck talking them into mounting it. When I told the guy
What I wanted he said, "I'll give it a try". It took him 30 minutes jost to get it on the rim. When the beads wouldn,t seat at 40 PSI he put it in a cage with a remote
air controller. He reluctantly took it up to 80PSI and sayed "Thats all I'm willing to go." He was just sure he'd ruin the tire ,rim, or both if he went any higher.
So, he handed me my tire and rim and offered me some slick-em they put on the beads to help make the slick so they"ll seat easier. When I asked him what I owed him he said nothing, I didn"t finish the job. I gave him a $10 and said thanks for trying, I want to buy your lunch. He had worked on this for 55 minutes for me.
I'll defenately be takeing him some regular tire biz.
I brought the tire/rim home and following his recomendation,I warmed the tire and rim up with a portable heater before trying this for myself. I slathered on some
slickem he sent home with me. I pulled the valve core, hooked up my tire filler that has a stem lock in it and stood 50 foot away. The first bead poped at 80PSI the second one poped at 100. I would never have had the balls to go this far had it not been for the threads I'd read on this board.
I do have one question ; I have 3oz. of Dyna-beads sitting on my bench waiting to go in. But, at one point the tire guy poured the slickum around the bead to
make sure it was well lubercated. Some of this ran into the inside of the tire. Anybody know how to get the inside of tire dry so the beads don't just get stuck
in the slickum instead of rolling free to do their job. Thanks for any ideas and thanks for giveing me an alteritve to a bike tire.
Ride safe all, Doug

welcome to the DARKSIDE,i believe i read that you should wait till about 500 miles or so to give that stuff time to dry before you put the beads in.even on my lil kumho 165,it took about 90 psi with alot of lube to get it to pop.glad you got it on there and i'm positive you will love it.

That tire lube will dry up eventually, as the water in it evaporates.

Sounds like another success story, but the proof is in the miles ahead. Don't forget to report back after you get a feel for it. Also, you won't receive any cookies until you have posted pictures, for verification purposes

Oldsmobility wrote:That tire lube will dry up eventually, as the water (liquid) in it evaporates.

Fact. last tire I waited 500 miles, couple weeks. When I pulled the tire off last month the beads were nice and dry. In fact, I saved them and will be putting in this tire shortly.

I've used veggie oil and silicone. Both dry up after a few hundred miles/weeks.

Good info wilcoxks, thanks for posting....as said earlier, let us know how you like the ride.

Jerry

Welcome aboard Wilcoxks and thx for the info, handy for all those spoked bikers
out there who are in doubt going DS.

wilcoxks wrote:I've been reading all I could get my eyes on here on the darkside. I want to thank all of you that take the time to share your expieriance, and answer questions
for people. I decided to go with the 205/70/15 GYTT. Even just makeing that decision was difficult. Ok, get this,I thought I'd be happier with a 195/60/15 thinking the smaller lower profile tire would handle better and wobble less. I ordered it from tire Rack. Before it even hit my door I changed my mind. I read a newer thread where a darksider said he changed out his 195/60/15 for a 205/70/15 because the other one was so small it made his bike rev to high at interstate speeds.
He was running a 1300 final drive , geared higher than my 1800 FD. SO I called Tire Rack for a return # and ordered the 205/70/15.
My bike is the 2003 1800S with 15" spoke rear wheel. I sealed my spoke rim with the 3M 5200 material. Thanks to all that posted"check your flange bearing
whenever you pull the rear wheel"I checked it and yes it was bad. Grindy and rough. I read that it's better to install american made bearings so i ordered them
Tues. WOW , $66.00 each for made in USA bearings. But I figure my life is worth it and besides I won't have to pull my rear tire for about 80,000 miles, right.
Well it probably won't be that long , but not for a long time anyway.
Well I took my CT and rim to a tire place that works on mostly farm and truck tires. I figured I'd have the most luck talking them into mounting it. When I told the guy
What I wanted he said, "I'll give it a try". It took him 30 minutes jost to get it on the rim. When the beads wouldn,t seat at 40 PSI he put it in a cage with a remote
air controller. He reluctantly took it up to 80PSI and sayed "Thats all I'm willing to go." He was just sure he'd ruin the tire ,rim, or both if he went any higher.
So, he handed me my tire and rim and offered me some slick-em they put on the beads to help make the slick so they"ll seat easier. When I asked him what I owed him he said nothing, I didn"t finish the job. I gave him a $10 and said thanks for trying, I want to buy your lunch. He had worked on this for 55 minutes for me.
I'll defenately be takeing him some regular tire biz.
I brought the tire/rim home and following his recomendation,I warmed the tire and rim up with a portable heater before trying this for myself. I slathered on some
slickem he sent home with me. I pulled the valve core, hooked up my tire filler that has a stem lock in it and stood 50 foot away. The first bead poped at 80PSI the second one poped at 100. I would never have had the balls to go this far had it not been for the threads I'd read on this board.
I do have one question ; I have 3oz. of Dyna-beads sitting on my bench waiting to go in. But, at one point the tire guy poured the slickum around the bead to
make sure it was well lubercated. Some of this ran into the inside of the tire. Anybody know how to get the inside of tire dry so the beads don't just get stuck
in the slickum instead of rolling free to do their job. Thanks for any ideas and thanks for giveing me an alteritve to a bike tire.
Ride safe all, Doug

If you plan on running 80,000 miles without spline maintence you better go ahead a order a final drive cause you're gonna need it .

Smokin'joeVRCCDS#0005 wrote:
If you plan on running 80,000 miles without spline maintence you better go ahead a order a final drive cause you're gonna need it .

You don't have to remove the final drive to service it. There's always the option of syphoning the gear oil out.

I checked today , flange bearings still not here. they say Mon. or Tues. I'll get it back together late next week. I'll post pictures and update how my first ride goes.
Thanks for the responses. BTW I thought you could drain the final drive lube through the drain hole in the FD. ? Ride safe, Doug

Oldsmobility wrote:

Smokin'joeVRCCDS#0005 wrote:
If you plan on running 80,000 miles without spline maintence you better go ahead a order a final drive cause you're gonna need it .

You don't have to remove the final drive to service it. There's always the option of syphoning the gear oil out.

Not just the oil, you have to lube the splines with molypaste, emphasis on paste too not grease. Needs to be done every 10k or so.


See you out there
Smokey

smokey2255 wrote:

Oldsmobility wrote:

Smokin'joeVRCCDS#0005 wrote:
If you plan on running 80,000 miles without spline maintence you better go ahead a order a final drive cause you're gonna need it .

You don't have to remove the final drive to service it. There's always the option of syphoning the gear oil out.

Not just the oil, you have to lube the splines with molypaste, emphasis on paste too not grease. Needs to be done every 10k or so.


See you out there
Smokey

That's right ,, without the moly-paste the splines are going to ware out fast .