2005 1800 Retro wheel swap

Huzzunga_Din Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:15 am

I have found some cast wheels for sale, stock C model wheels, and I am thinking about making an offer on them. I have also found just a rear cast wheel for sale, described as off an "1800 VTX pulled for a trike build". My bike has the 15 and 17 the stock C is a 16 and an 18.

I am wondering if everything is a direct bolt on for my rotors from my R to the C, going from spoked to cast.

It is tempting to seal the spoked wheel, and run it, being a 15 as opposed to a 16, and spoked. I have the R - S2, studs and spokes, and really don't want to seal the spoked rear wheel to mount a mount a CT on it unless I pick up a spare rear spoked wheel cheap.

Due to a death of my truck, this VTX is my primary transportation. Another reason a 48 - 72 hour cure time isn't something I want to do.

A set of R/C wheels is of course very interesing, but last night was not "Lotto" night for us , so that is out for a while.

If anyone in the Tulsa area has swapped out their stock wheels for some aftermarket, and still has them let me know if they are for sale. I would do a 15 inch rear in a spoked wheel if it is really inexpensive so I can still ride while working the new rear tire mod.

Thanks
Jeff

Dan Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:00 pm

Spoke to cast should be bolt on swap since both are 1800's. Check parts fiche for matching part no.'s on rotors, spacers, etc. to be sure. http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_select.asp

Huzzunga_Din Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:23 pm

Thanks Dan. I found a spoke wheel on eBay, now considering it. One to ride, while I work the other over if I do a spoke. I am going to hope to find one for less than his though. Seems spokes aren't popular.
Jeff

nodakbassmaster Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:34 pm

no. the spoke rotors are different. All the rest of the rotors between the C,R,N, F wheels are the same though.

lots of folks with the spokes switch to cast... some for looks, some for maintenance and some to get away from the tube

Huzzunga_Din Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:38 am

I have not looked up any parts yet on the Honda site. So,I guess I am back to the one spoked wheel on eBay, or another source. Later maybe an entire RC set up. They guy at RC told me whatever I ordered from them would work with my rotors.
Thanks
Jeff

Dan Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:29 pm

Fiche shows same part no. for front rotors on 1800C 18"cast wheel as 1800S 17"spoke, rear rotor has different part no. for 16"cast wheel than 15"spoke.

nodakbassmaster Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:58 pm

rear one is the one that is different Wink

Buckeye_rider Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:21 pm

Been following this post since I have an 03 Retro S and would like to switch to cast wheels also. So the front wheel is an easy swap but the rear isn't compatible? How do you get around that?

Huzzunga_Din Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:13 pm

[b]Thanks for searching the fiche. Sounds like anew rotor would be in order for the rear. On eBay, there is an entire swingarm, rear wheels sans tire, caliper, rotor, and drive assyembly for $600. It is on a Buy It Now or Best Offer.
I a watching it, I have no affiliation with the seller. Looks like a way to get a lot of parts for $600 or so.
Jeff[b]

Dan Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:12 pm

Buckeye_rider wrote:Been following this post since I have an 03 Retro S and would like to switch to cast wheels also. So the front wheel is an easy swap but the rear isn't compatible? How do you get around that?

I believe you just need the rotor that's designed for the cast rear wheel.

Buckeye_rider Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:59 am

Looked on Bikebandit for the fiche. Comparing the fiche for the R and S model rear wheels the rotors do have different part #. So if the rotors are different you need different calipers too? This wheel swap is starting to look like an expensive proposition. Why did I buy the S model??? Sure isn't because the freakin spokes are so easy to clean or nothin like that lol.

Buckeye_rider Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:08 pm

I'm starting to see why guys just seal the spoke wheels instead of swapping for the cast wheels now. Still...it kind of freaks me out to think of sealing up a spoke wheel and riding tubeless. Might just try putting the CT on the spoke rims with a tube if I can get it seated.

Maybe I'll start buying lottery tickets. Got a baby on the way and can't justify putting a lot of money in the bike at the moment. My keen survival instinct won't allow me to approach the pregnant Mrs. and say, "Hey babe I know you are totally focused on the baby right now, so I was thinking you wouldn't mind if I spent another grand on the bike before the lil' guy is born. K?". Nope, I'd rather live to ride another day. Idea

Dan Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:22 pm

Buckeye_rider wrote:Looked on Bikebandit for the fiche. Comparing the fiche for the R and S model rear wheels the rotors do have different part #. So if the rotors are different you need different calipers too? This wheel swap is starting to look like an expensive proposition. Why did I buy the S model??? Sure isn't because the freakin spokes are so easy to clean or nothin like that lol.

Complete caliper assy, mounting bracket, axle, and spacers, are all the same, the only difference in the rotor must be the mounting and/or bolt pattern is different for the spoke wheel hub, than for the cast wheel.

Huzzunga_Din Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:59 am

Complete 2007 Retro Singarm assembly, rear wheel and rotor less tire and shocks on the way. This assembly came off a 2007 1800 Retro reported to have had 20 miles put on while being delivered for a trike mod.

So now it is just going to be a matter of choosing the tire, mounting the tire, pouring in the beads and installing the new wheel assembly. I am leaning towards the Goodyear TT or the Michelin Hydroedge and the recommended size looks to be a 205/60/16.

I have to go read up on the mods to see if I need to do it for clearance. Sam's has a price of under $130 on either tire if what I saw last night holds true. I am seeing posts over on the VTX Cafe speaking of using 205/70/16 tires on an 1800 Retro now.
Jeff

nodakbassmaster Wed Aug 05, 2009 6:21 pm

keep an eye out on the classifieds and ebay for a rear wheel, some come with rotors, some don't. The S rotor is actually worth more than the rest because it's a different critter (good for re-sell to recoupe $$) I've seen several rotors and wheels on ebay lately... :arrow:

Huzzunga_Din Wed Aug 05, 2009 6:35 pm

I just bought everything except the shocks and the rubber on eBay and all I know is it is off a Retro. No idea if it is an "S" unless "S" means spoked, like mine which it isn't. I looked at bikebandit.com, p/n were the same on the final and the gears. I will be boxing up the final drive for long term storage, at the current price of $1200, I doubt they get less expensive, so I have a spare. You can do a search on eBay and see what I bought under completed listings. Search 1800 VTX wheel, you ought to hit it. Or complete 1800 vtx swingarm assembly
There are other rear wheels for sale, but a rotor, $180 or so.
Huzz

Huzzunga_Din Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:40 pm

Okay, the parts arrived. The rotor looks like it has maybe 10 miles on it as it isn't even worn uniformly yet. The parts look brand new, some tire removal marks interior edge of the rim, minor, other than that as described. I have a few hours of polishing to do, then it will be time to mount up. I also bought 5 ounces of Dynabeads. So will be trying every change at once.

I haven't decided between the Goodyear Assurance TT or the Hydroedge yet. It is down to the point of if Sam's only has one or th eother in stock, that will be the choice. Otherwise I will probably start with the Hyrdoedge 205/65/16 as I am led to believe I will not have to perform any mods for that size on a 2005 1800 Retro.

I have decided I want a Metzler ME 880 front.

So, do I need to run the more expensive Metzler radial on the front, or am I supposed to mix and run the lesser expensive ME 880 bias ply on the front.

I have read "Don't run a pair of radials" I have read "I have run radials front and back" on & on.

So what's it to be? The $70 price difference is not the issue. I mostly ride back and forth to work, and around town. But we get out on the road when we can, and we love leaning into turns.

I want to run the "best" tire, so help me out.
Thanks in advance
Huzz

Larry Simpson Wed Aug 12, 2009 11:43 pm

Where are you reading can't run radials together? Never heard this,I am running metezler 880 front.Just went to look and cannot find anything marked as to radial or bias but I beleive it is a radial. I run gytt rear and have had no issue scratch

Huzzunga_Din Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:07 am

Sorry to have caused any confusion Larry. I have read run so much that is just opinion I do not know what is an real issue or what isn't. As far as I know the only issue is I don't know which is the best combination. If you paid $120 or so I would guess you have th eBias ply, if you paid $165 or so my guess is the Radial. That is how I see the pricing anyway. So if that is what you have, let me know.

For all I know what is on the bike from Honda are both radials. I'll go look.......I don't see an "R" or the word "Radial" on either tire. I do see Nylon, and they are both Dunlops. I do not think they are radials, likely just cheap Nylon Bias ply tires that cupped on the back and wore slap out on the left side of the front after 8k miles.

So back to having read this or that and what & where. Forget it, I can't recall where I read what.

Manufacturers and websites offer Radial fronts, no where have I see a warning stating don't mix, or don't match, or do match radial to bias from the sellers. Leads me to beleive it doesn't matter.

So seeking to seperate fact from opinion, is there any issue running the ME 880 Radial with a CT on the back. This is the forum where folks are discussing the various tire combinations. I would like to order my front tire today, and go get my C/T this afternoon.

So if you are running the ME880 Radial up front and scraping your floorboards, getting something better than the sorry 8k mile life outof the tire, and know this is a good combination, let me know.

Thanks
Huzz

Dan Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:04 am

OEM stock tires are lettered on sidewall, Dunlop Radial, all radials will usually have an R in the size after aspect ratio, ie; 150/80R17. You will get a little better handling and ride from a radial than a bias. The Metz 07 catalog tech section states; best results obtained with radials at both ends, and rear radial with front bias is acceptable, but not vice versa.

daves1300s Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:44 am

Huzz, I can't speak to the radial front (yet) but have been running the CT radial rear with the Metz ME880 bias front for just over 11k so far on my 1300S. I don't scrape the boards all the time but have many times with no issues with this setup. I am getting close to time to change out the front again and will probably end up with about 12k total on the ME880. The next front will have the dynabeads since I just installed them into the rear and see if the mileage changes. I believe ANY Metz is going to do better for you than the Dunlops did so you can only go up from here. Probably in flames according to the rest of the world, LOL

Dave

Larry Simpson Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:06 am

Well,I just paid 125 so now I am guessing it is bias.It is ME880 150/80H16 andGYTT 205/60/16.Have just had METZ. on for 6000miles so can't answer mileage question .However it still looks new now. When I scrape the running boards on this thing it is an accident but it happens fairly often anyway.Sounds like it is taking bottom side apart. To be honest you taught me something,I actualy didn't think they made bias anymore you can be sure next tire I buy I will know it is a radial.I do beleive they give all around better service.Thanks Larry Surprised

Huzzunga_Din Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:19 am

Dan wrote:OEM stock tires are lettered on sidewall, Dunlop Radial, all radials will usually have an R in the size after aspect ratio, ie; 150/80R17. You will get a little better handling and ride from a radial than a bias. The Metz 07 catalog tech section states; best results obtained with radials at both ends, and rear radial with front bias is acceptable, but not vice versa.

Thanks, this was what was causing "MY" confusion, the no bias rear radials front thing , and was why I asked because I could not really remember. Okay guys, all good input. K&N over at the turnpike gate quoted me under $130 for an ME 880, $20 to install (unless Larry is gonna do it for free in Okmulgee ) . I now suspect that is bias ply at K&N for that price, so I will ride to Honda of T Town at lunch and get their best price.

I should have a Goodyear TT this evening and a Metzler on order.

Time for some polishing on the cast rear.

And speaking of lunch..................
Huzz

Larry Simpson Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:34 am

Try renegade trikes in glenpool 918-291-2313 that is where I bought my metz for $125.96 they mounted it for $15.00 (I carried rim in).They will not mount CT, Wouldn't mention it if you don't want ear full.We can help with CT .

Huzzunga_Din Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:35 am

I got price of $197 locally, this compares to $165 + shipping off the net, for the Radial. Is the radial going to be worth $40 - $70 more? I don't know. I don't mind handing the local dealer $25 or $30 more occaisonally because he is there for us locally. H.o.T mounts for $15, maybe because I bought the tire there on a carry in.

I did put a bug in his ear that K&N over in Sapulpa (or way West Tulsa) will mount,with a waiver a C/T/.

So maybe H.o.T. will reconsider mounting a C/T if they get a waiver. I will type them one up and we will see.

I have to decide now what i am going to do with this cast rear. I saw a black one that looked very very nice painted. I don't recall if that was here or over in the VTX Cafe Forums. I am getting more black than chrome on my bike it seems.

I will keep you in mind on the C/T mount, 3 rollaways and not a tire tool in any of them.
Huzz

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