Different wobble?

OK, I have read every post I can find concerning the front end wobble on the 1300, please correct me if I am wrong but they are all while driving in a straight line. My S tries to wobble in curves, if I go into a curve just a little hard and there is ANY kind of bump or dip the front end tries to straighten up. Thats about the best I can discribe it, it's almost like taking the curve is small bites instead of a smooth arc. I have changed out the stem bearings, have the nylon rear bushings installed moved the windshield up and down and still get this disconcerting effect. I'm beginning to wonder if I am just not countersteering hard enough and have been trying to pull harder to see if it helps. I've been riding this bike for over 2 years now with the last year on the darkside, I don't think for a second the CT has anything to do with this. I know it didn't do this when I first got the bike but I have gotten much more aggressive as I get more used to the cruiser feel. So now that I am running out of breath (long winded) does anyone have any other ideas or input?

All thoughts welcome,
Dave

Tire pressure

38 rear and 41 front, very consistant

I heard same complaint recently and beleive it was cured by dropping rear pressure to 32,that is what I run,worth a try. RIDE SAFE Larry S.

I'll give it a shot this afternoon.

Thanks

might be wrong but mine did the same thing till I got the light weight fork springs replaced with progressive ones the new fork oil may have helped lots too, the Honda oil after 1 year looked like rusted water and had 2 or 3 oz less in one of the forks.

My X has been doing that wobble in the curve thingy lately.

Already replaced the bearings, front, rear and neck, replaced the springs and fluid, replaced the bushings and three days ago replaced the rubber front and rear and use Dynabeads, too. All this has been done in the last month and she still wobbles in the curves. Trying to figure it out.

I think the bike just likes all the attention.

Wren

I have been looking into this more and found the following write up on the vtxoa, it discribes the wondering of the front end and talks about the torque setting for the stem bearings. I ordered and recieved a new lock tab washer so I can try to reset the torque on the stem bearing and have not had time to take it all back apart yet. I am thinking I will probably leave my windshield off for the first test ride after and then if the wobble is gone put the shield on to see if that has any effect. See the write up from Chicagospike about testing the bearing settings, don't know yet if this will help but it is something else to try.

Dave

You can do it with a punch just fine by feel for sure. I ended up having to do this enough times, that I bought one of the stem sockets from Honda. I usually pull the top nut, lay the triple tree and bars on a thick pad on the tank, pull all the adjuster nuts, check/re-bend the isolater legs on the lock washer, schmear a little 30w on the stem itself, then torque the bottom adjuster to 108 in-lbs and measure. Once I get the pre-load where I want it, I put the washer back on, and turn on the top adjusting nut finger tight plus a tiny bit more - just enough to compress the lockwasher slightly, but making sure that a small gap exists between the top adjuster and bottom adjuster. Then, back on with the tree, and torque the top nut and re-measure the stem load.

You've got a range of between 2-3 lbs of turn resistance in the forks to work with. Less than 2 lbs will make the bike wobble at lower speeds and when backing off the throttle, more than three will make it "hunt" or wander on the road, and wobble when accelerating at high speeds. Both really suck.

Some folks like their stem a little on the light side, others want it heavy. The guys who ride hard and really lay it into corners like it lighter, usually.

First, one working out a wobble, you tend to focus on what the front end is doing to the point where you feel a wobble even when the fork is behaving normally - get someone else to ride and verify the wobble for you - been there, done that

1. If you have a windshield, triple check it to be sure it's evenly mounted. Try adjusting the face of the shield a bit, see if a change in airflow eliminates the wobble.
2. Remove the front wheel, and inspect the front bearings.
3. Check the front axle, and make sure it's dead true.
4. Re-mount the wheel, and align it in the forks properly. Make sure the disks don't chirp when you spin the wheel (usually, this is fixed by loosening the left side axle pinch bolts, and pulling out the fork leg until the end of the axle is flush with the face of the fork end).
5. jack up the bike, and slowly turn the forks from side to side feeling for flat spots in the bearings.
6. Adjust the stem tension
7. Check and adjust the motor mount nuts.
8. Check and adjust the exhaust rear hanger
9. Remove the rear wheel, and inspect the bearings.
10. Make sure the rear axle is dead true.
11. After re-mounting, make sure the rear rotor doesn't chirp.

Wobbles can be caused by a lot of things. Obviously, if the steering stem isn't adjusted right, wobbles happen. But wobbles can also be caused by any mass on the bike that can vibrate or "oscillate" as well.
Last update: 2005-01-15 08:03

The only thing I can add to what Chicagospike told ya is to check to make sure the alignment of the bike is correct. the "Bible" (A.K.A. Service Manual) will help you along when you are checking everything out.