stoped for fuel and the bike wouldnt start

so to day my dad my uncle and i were riding after about 35 miles we stopped for fuel and ice crem (dads idea)and we got fuel and ice cream and my uncle rides a harley so i was screwing with him about riding a harley of couarse so i turned my key on and it had power when i turned the key then i pushed the start button and it clicked and i lost all power. So me and dad tore into it and got power back and then the same thing happend...Has this happend to any of ou on your shadows?? If so could you tell me wht caused it and how you fixed it please and thank you

Thanks

Dude

First guess is the kill switch needs replaced. When you get a chance Short it out in the harness and see if she goes. I had a shadow when I was a tad smaller and I had this issue too. I looked like the fat kid on a BMX on that bike. Prolly fits you like a glove. Hope this helps.

Someone once told me that the little red button was for the paramedics to shut it down only. ha ha. dont use mine at all and it has left me miffed a few times by someone shuttin it down with the switch.

Peace little bro.
Moon

check the kickstand switch as well. sometimes they will stick. manually actuate the switch with your hand allow it to snap a couple of times. it should start working. good luck ....Griz

It only happens when you stop, and not while riding?
You eventually get the power back on without swapping out a fuse or anything?

kill switch or kickstand switch.

If it clicked and you lost power to everything...that really indicates a battery cable connection is bad...check the connections at the battery...not just that they are tight, but that the wire/connector junction is not corroded. I have seen this sideline bikes more than once.

Also check where the negative cable grounds to the frame/engine...that will often corrode as well.

Take a good look at the starter relay as well...the connections/connectors.

Daniel Meyer wrote:If it clicked and you lost power to everything...that really indicates a battery cable connection is bad...check the connections at the battery...not just that they are tight, but that the wire/connector junction is not corroded. I have seen this sideline bikes more than once.

Also check where the negative cable grounds to the frame/engine...that will often corrode as well.

Take a good look at the starter relay as well...the connections/connectors.

+1
Back in the early 80's I had a Sliverwing (goldwing wannabe) and the wires on the starter solenoid were shot so when i replaced them with new ones I found out that that over half of the wires at both ends were broken or corroded off. a little petroleum jelly on the wire ends will keep that down. Sorry never had a shadow.
Good luck, your friend, Horseman

thanks for the help yall and its not the batery conection dad and i checked it and its not fueses either but thanks for your help

This is one of the fun problems I get or hear about. Electrical work is very time consuming and without knowing the over all condition of the bike (how old it is, how good the battery keeps it's charge, what new stuff has been added to the bike, est....). If you are able to recreate the sound, then it would be something other then eletrical.

If you had a multimeter I would suggest checking out the ignition system. 2 reasons for that would be to locate the problem area, and the second would be to see what kind of amps are running to it. You can test the current with a test light to locate the problem area/component, but with a multimeter you can ensure the wires are not carrying high amps that would overheat the component and cause the same problem again after replacing the part.

What did you do to get the bike back up and running, might be able to stear you in the right direction a little better.

Hey yaal, here is what it did. key on all lit up like it should, pushed starter button everything died. Messed with it a bit and got the power back with the key on hit the start button everything died again. Unable to get it to repeat. I did hear what sounded like a loose connection. the kind that make the mild ticht sound when the circuit is broken. It will be a few days but plan to check the terminals on all heavy load componantsfirst chance we get. Working 3 doubles back to back this weekend gonna have to wait til I get through the weekend.

See you out there
Smokey

Sounds like the switch assy to me. This is a known weak point with the shadows. They aren't that expensive nor difficult to replace.

When I had MY electrical problems, they just replaced it by default. Turns out it wasn't it, but that tells you how often they fail-when the dealer just replaces it by default.

Steve-O wrote:Sounds like the switch assy to me. This is a known weak point with the shadows. They aren't that expensive nor difficult to replace.

When I had MY electrical problems, they just replaced it by default. Turns out it wasn't it, but that tells you how often they fail-when the dealer just replaces it by default.

That's why I would love to be able to have the bike infront of me to find out what's wrong. Ther's no reason to put a band-aid on a broken leg, but a lot of places will do just that. If you get to a point and start to get stumped feel free to give me a call and I should be able to help you out.