oil debate

does it really matter what type of oil you use in the x (auto or m/c)? i know that you arent supposed to use energy conserving but what is the difference between auto or bike? i have been running castrol full syn and everything seems to be running smooth. i have heard that only use motorcycle oil or bad things can happen and i have heard that they are virtually the same except for the price which they jack up for m/c. confused here. any suggestions?

Hudi here is a link that explains it pretty good...
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/

Jerry

so from what i read (read it fast) it is ok as long as it is not energy conserving? i run the castrol syn and seems to shift better and smoother than the original oil.

I just use the Rotella in mine. He has a list of recomended oils, under Engine oils.
I use the longer walmart filter too (st7317 I think).
Every one has their own prefference, I dont have an oppinion on Castrol one way or the other, but if its working okay......

Jerry

my question is "are auto oils ok to use?" rotella is an auto oil, right? i know that castrol is a good oil and i was going to buy the rotella but i cant find it at wallyworld or any auto store arond my area so i went with the castrol.

Rotella is for deisel engines. From what I read it should be okay according to them. I am hesitant to tell you its okay because I wouldn't want you to blame me if something happened.
I know others that say they wouldn't use anything but Amisol, I cant afford that.

Jerry

I did alot of research on this, it seems that next to Amsoil the next most recommended on the OB is Mobil 1 - 4T.
Thats what I'm using, it did seem to smooth out that hard clunk downshifting into first.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

go here and read all you ever wanted to know and a good read

What you do have to watch out for is automotive oil DOESN'T have chemicals in them to allow them to work with your clutch plates. Some automotive oil will delaminate your clutch plates.

I use only oil recommended for 4 wheelers or bikes only whether synthetic or not!


.................bobby

.

I use Castrol 4T oil in mine, never had problems with that oil. It is the 4T part you gotta be looking for. As Twin said some oils will delaminate your clutch plates. I learned this the hard was many moons ago.

Rotella is what God runs in his truck ( which being as He's God it must be a Cummins)

I run Rotella in my Cumnmins, my DRZ400, my VTX1300C, my CB400TII, my Suzuki Eiger 400 4X4, and I'd cook with it if my wife woudl let me. Best stuff on earth if you ask me.

I buy it 6 or 8 gallons at a time since my truck takes over 3 gallons of it I use it pretty quick it seems.

George

gstanfield wrote:Rotella is what God runs in his truck ( which being as He's God it must be a Cummins)

I run Rotella in my Cumnmins, my DRZ400, my VTX1300C, my CB400TII, my Suzuki Eiger 400 4X4, and I'd cook with it if my wife woudl let me. Best stuff on earth if you ask me.

I buy it 6 or 8 gallons at a time since my truck takes over 3 gallons of it I use it pretty quick it seems.

George

No kidding. I saw you posted that but I actually thought you was jokin around. Have you had any problems whatsoever with using rotella? I what to know. I have used castrol for many years in my bikes, but never really cared for the castrol name. I cant say anything negitive about the oil, but you know. I got issues that me and the shrink still have to work out.

Actually Castrol GTX is what I run in everything else I've had no issues at all with Rotella and in the tests I've seen performed in diesel shops it is the best diesel oil around and the ratings on it are pretty much the same as for the MT oil.

Afterall, Diesels and bikes are similar in that they are both hard on oil, so what works for one will work for the other.

George

I havent run anything but car oil in my 13, and I have the stock cluch in that came in the bike, and have over 55,000 on it. Haven5t had any problems at all.

The only thing I wontrun is a Fram filter.

rotella here too. for about 15000 miles. It hasn't killed me or the bike yet. Just make sure what ever you run is not energy conserving and you will not have problems.

See you out there
Smokey

Did tons of research after I foolishly had the 500 mi change done at my local stealer. $90!! Tried both Rotella dino and syn not much difference in the performance of either. Settled on the dino version and have been using it for a little over 30K. Change every 3K (with Bosch filter) like clockwork. May be too often but it makes me feel good. No issues at all.

Here is a writeup i did a wile back. I hope it helps you.


OIL, OIL and OIL , after looking at tons and TONS of data from all over the web i was at a tossup so i called a friend of mine that worked at an oil analysis lab in the air force and now in civilian lab. I just went to AMSOIL

Here is the oil recommended in the service manual for the VTX.

" PRO HONDA GN4 OR HP4 (without moylbdenum additives) , 4 stroke oil or equivalent motor oil.
API service classification: SG or Higher .
JASO T903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10w-40 "



SAE is Society of Automotive Engineers.
JASO is Japanese Automotive Standards Organization
API is American Petroleum Institute
I could not find honda's raitings even after calling the local honda dealer.

First SAE is the VISCOSITY CLASSIFICATION? How thick the oil is, we are to use 10w-40.
The JASO standard is "MA" and "MB" , we use the rated MA .
With the API you can see a label symbol looks like a disk in a disk and the ratings go up with the litters .
like SG is better then SF and SH is better then SG and so on . we look for a rating of SG or better.

Now a word Molybdenum, NOT good for your clutch. enough said.

so with all i have read and talked to people as long as you use an oil in these standards and without moly then you are good to go . BUT for better to great protection i would use a full Synthetic oil.

read these , great info:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx
there are others just run a search and look through them

On the front of the Amsoil AMO1G label you can see that even thay say this is for Cars, Motorcycles, RV's




On the back label you can see the API SG , the JASO MA and the SAE 10w-40
it also says "( Motorcycle Wet Clutch)" , now skip down and read "Recommended for use up to 15,000 miles or one year whichever comes first".
WELL i had to check this out , so on the phone i went , called my friend and he told me that in his goldwing he puts 12,000 miles on the oil but changes the filter every 4,000 miles and then does a top off.
he has checked the oil every 4,000 miles and even the 12,000 mile oil checked good and if he wanted to he could have gone on with it but he changes it at 12,000 anyway . WOW i was impressed. Now you know why i went to AMSOIL.
BY the way i am not a dealer for AMSOIL so i am not trying to sell it to you , this is what i did. just my $.02



good luck have fun. your friend , Horse

horseman8m wrote:Here is a writeup i did a wile back. I hope it helps you.


OIL, OIL and OIL , after looking at tons and TONS of data from all over the web i was at a tossup so i called a friend of mine that worked at an oil analysis lab in the air force and now in civilian lab. I just went to AMSOIL

Here is the oil recommended in the service manual for the VTX.

" PRO HONDA GN4 OR HP4 (without moylbdenum additives) , 4 stroke oil or equivalent motor oil.
API service classification: SG or Higher .
JASO T903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10w-40 "



SAE is Society of Automotive Engineers.
JASO is Japanese Automotive Standards Organization
API is American Petroleum Institute
I could not find honda's raitings even after calling the local honda dealer.

First SAE is the VISCOSITY CLASSIFICATION? How thick the oil is, we are to use 10w-40.
The JASO standard is "MA" and "MB" , we use the rated MA .
With the API you can see a label symbol looks like a disk in a disk and the ratings go up with the litters .
like SG is better then SF and SH is better then SG and so on . we look for a rating of SG or better.

Now a word Molybdenum, NOT good for your clutch. enough said.

so with all i have read and talked to people as long as you use an oil in these standards and without moly then you are good to go . BUT for better to great protection i would use a full Synthetic oil.

read these , great info:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx
there are others just run a search and look through them

On the front of the Amsoil AMO1G label you can see that even thay say this is for Cars, Motorcycles, RV's




On the back label you can see the API SG , the JASO MA and the SAE 10w-40
it also says "( Motorcycle Wet Clutch)" , now skip down and read "Recommended for use up to 15,000 miles or one year whichever comes first".
WELL i had to check this out , so on the phone i went , called my friend and he told me that in his goldwing he puts 12,000 miles on the oil but changes the filter every 4,000 miles and then does a top off.
he has checked the oil every 4,000 miles and even the 12,000 mile oil checked good and if he wanted to he could have gone on with it but he changes it at 12,000 anyway . WOW i was impressed. Now you know why i went to AMSOIL.
BY the way i am not a dealer for AMSOIL so i am not trying to sell it to you , this is what i did. just my $.02



good luck have fun. your friend , Horse

+1 You can also get a free preferred customer discount if you look around a bit on google. I change my oil with Amsoil and one of their EaOM103 filters every 8-10k miles. With the discount, it's $45 shipped to my door.