Cheap-Easy-SOLID Jack/Stand Fits VT1100s, Can Be Modified For Other Bikes

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Cheap-Easy-SOLID Jack/Stand Fits VT1100s, Can Be Modified For Other Bikes

Post  crank on Mon Nov 25, 2013 5:49 pm





The basic idea came from http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm pretty much added on to it to allow the engine to drop down between the frame braces. And added eyebolts for a tie-down, and a separate piece of wood for extra support once its up. The bottom photo is with the front jacked up and the front wheel and forks off.

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Materials:

(1) 2"x8"x8'
(1) 4 foot piece of 3/4" threaded pipe (galvanized)
(1) 3/4" floor flange
2 1/2" Wood Screws
some scrap 2"x4", a piece of 1"x6" for the side brace (can use 2"x8", 1"x8", or whatever ya got)
(2) eyebolts, big enough for a tie town to hook to

(4) 4" lag bolts with nuts, (4) washers,  a drill bit a bit larger dia. than the bolts (I bolted the flange in place with these for strength, but could just use wood screws)

1" drill bit (this is used to drill the hole the pipe goes through)
1 3/8" drill bit (this is used where the flange sets in the wood. other sizes close to it can work)
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Pretty self explanatory really. I cut the 2"x8" into 2 four foot sections, and screwed them together to make a 3"x8"x4'. Dont run screws where you're gonna drill through for the handle. I marked a spot for the handle about 6 inches from the end, and drilled the set for the flange with the 1 3/8" bit first. Once that was deep enough for the flange to sit, I finished with the 1" drill bit for the handle. Set flange in wood, marked spots for holes, and drilled pilot holes. I drilled the bolt holes slightly angled away from the hole for the pipe, to leave a bit more wood in there. Then screwed the pipe into the flange and bolted it down. The flange is not visible in my photos. It is on the back side of that wood in photo #1, and is mounted face down (recessed into the wood). On that link above, looks like other people tried just screwing it down to the top of a board and the results didn't work out so well/wasn't strong enough. The pipe going through the wood does make it very solid. You'd have to bust through two layers of 2x8 to pop that pipe loose. The handle on the piece of pipe is an old bicycle handle i had in a box that ended up sliding right on. All this is pretty much the same as the plans off of that link i posted up there ^

I used 4 scraps of 2x4 for the frame braces, and 2 at the ends to screw in the eye bolts. I don't guess it matters how big these are, as long as they're big enough to screw down and provide support/space to mount. Mark the center of the 4 foot length of jack. Screw a piece of 2"x4" down at each end, and screw the eyebolts in place. Pilot holes are good i guess if the wood is dry. The gap between the 2 frame braces is 10 1/8" (ten and one-eigth inches) that's the important measurement. Mark that off centered in the middle of the jack, and screw down the 2"x4"s at that width. Gives plenty of room for the engine and whatnot to sit down there, and the frame braces go all the way under the frame. The engine bolts and whatnot fit snug in between.

I made the side brace to make it all more solid, after having it on the stand and wrenching on the bike, I realized it had a wobble to it, even strapped down. With the side brace on there, it feels solid and I am pretty confident on turning a wrench and the bike's not going anywhere. I used a scrap piece of 1"x6", and a couple pieces of scrap 2"x2". Could use 2"x4" in place of 2"x2". It's a 3 foot long scrap, basically I marked the middle, set it up to the side of the jack and marked it, then screwed the 2 pieces of 2x2 to it so it holds on to the jack real tight. I screwed down the two pieces of wood a little on the narrow side of the marks so it holds on to the jack real good.

Well that's about it.  My bike is a 2007 VT1100C, that 10 1/8" measurement is good for sure on mine. There were several revisions on the VT1100 frames over the years. I am pretty sure they are mostly engine mount changes and that the main frame spacing should be the same, at least for the twin pins. The single pin Aces/Aeros might be a bit different on spacing, I've never looked up under one.

Cost was about 25 bucks for the pipe, flange, and the bolts. Oh and the 2x8. I had the rest here already. Barring any answer otherwise from site owner/admins, feel free to modify the plans for different bikes and post em up/pass em on. Take er easy... greasy side down - and shiny side up thumbup
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crank

Number of posts : 7
Location : Macon County, NC
Registration date : 2013-10-29

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