LEDS turn signal wiring (two wire leds work as a three wire)
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LEDS turn signal wiring (two wire leds work as a three wire)
Have you ever wanted to put on some cool after market front LED turn signals,
like these in the first picture, E8ay has them for under $10. BUT look,,,,
Everyone of them are TWO wire and most states require both marker lights and turn signals.
go ahead and get them and pickup a few things to get the LEDS to work for you.
6 ea ... 3 Amp diodes (rectifier type) 1N5401
2 ea .... 1/4 watt 270 ohm resistors
5 ea,,,,,, small bayonet connectors (male ends needed)
2 ea ,,,,,,,,solder-less butt connector
6 inches.. orange wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....blue wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....green wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....black wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches ... 1/4" heat shrink
8 inches ... 1/8" heat shrink
Total in parts about $5.
Solder and soldering iron
Color of the wire is NOT important as long as you put the right wire in the right place.
This should work on most motorcycles.
cut the orange wire in half and strip the ends ( two - 3" wires)
see fig 1
twist the ends of two diodes together with the stripe up and twist one orange wire to
that end and solder them together.
with the other orange wire twist and solder that to one of the bottom ends of a diode.
take one resistor and twist and solder it to the other diode bottom end.
cut two 1" green wires and strip the ends.
with one of the short green wires twist to the bottom of the resistor.
lay it down so it looks like the picture in fig 1
now do this again but now instead of orange wire use blue on this one.
you should have two of fig1 one with orange wire on top and left bottom and a
green wire on the right bottom and one with blue wire on top and left bottom and a
green wire on the right bottom . Good now set them aside for now .
cut 2" of the black wire , and strip the ends.
cut the rest of the green wire in half , this should give you two 2" sections
and strip the ends.
as you see in fig 2 ,,, twist each end of the black wire on the top of the
a diode (stripe up) and solder (E) to (F).
then twist and solder the two green wires to the bottom of the diodes .
you should have fig 2
Now place the orange wires of the fig 1 to the left and the blue wires of the
fig 1 to the right so that both resistors are on the inside and this is where you
need two 2" sections of 1/4" heat shrink and slide them onto the resistors so
they cover the fig 1 diodes ,, now set fig 2 at the bottom and twist and solder
the 1" green wires to the tops of the fig 2 assembly (E) and (F).
SEE FIG 3:
you must use heat shrink to keep things from getting wet and it makes the unit stronger.
Heat and shrink as you go,, looking at fig 4 you will see that the heat shrink works from
the bottom up. now cut 2" section of the 1/8" heat shrink, slide it up the green wires
(G) and (H) of the fig 2 diodes first, then the heat shrink from fig 1 resisters over the
top of the black wire and the fig 2 diodes and going up with the same heat shrink
covering the resisters and the inboard diodes on the fig1. now two sections of 1/8"
heat shrink to cover the diodes and wires of (C) and (D) to cover the outside
diodes of the fig 1 assembly. then cut two 2" sections of 1/4" heat shrink and
cover the (A) and (B) wires and over half way down the fig 1 diodes.
The fun part is done now you should have ,,,
A ,,,, orange wire
B ,,,,, blue wire
C,,,,,, orange wire
D ,,,,,,,blue wire
G ,,,,,,, green wire
H ,,,,,,green wire
as seen in fig 4.
remove the top inside screws to your headlight , unplug it and set aside.
strip the ends of the LEDs neg - end and twist together and crimp a male bayonet
connector on the end. You can see the wires that go to the ground it is the
only double bayonet connector there, .
wire (A) goes to the left turn LED pos+ wire, splice and crimp solder-less butt connector
wire (B) goes to the right turn LED pos+ wire, splice and crimp solder-less butt connector
wire (C) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the orange with black wire .
wire (D) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the blue with black wire.
wire (G) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the orange with white wire.
wire (H) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the blue with white wire.
.
print this one out (fig 5 ) and have on hand as a ref.
reinstall headlight . try it out .. if you have a fast turn signal flash then you will need to change your
flasher relay , to do that go to this link ..
https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/general-motorcycle-tech-information-f14/leds-flasher-fix-t2900.htm
that should fix you up and your new leds should last 100,000 hours.
NOTE: some motorcycles have other color codes, so just go with the color wires that are on your bike.
good luck, drive safe,
Horseman (Jonathan)
like these in the first picture, E8ay has them for under $10. BUT look,,,,
Everyone of them are TWO wire and most states require both marker lights and turn signals.
go ahead and get them and pickup a few things to get the LEDS to work for you.
6 ea ... 3 Amp diodes (rectifier type) 1N5401
2 ea .... 1/4 watt 270 ohm resistors
5 ea,,,,,, small bayonet connectors (male ends needed)
2 ea ,,,,,,,,solder-less butt connector
6 inches.. orange wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....blue wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....green wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches....black wire 18-22 gauge (no smaller then 22 gauge)
6 inches ... 1/4" heat shrink
8 inches ... 1/8" heat shrink
Total in parts about $5.
Solder and soldering iron
Color of the wire is NOT important as long as you put the right wire in the right place.
This should work on most motorcycles.
cut the orange wire in half and strip the ends ( two - 3" wires)
see fig 1
twist the ends of two diodes together with the stripe up and twist one orange wire to
that end and solder them together.
with the other orange wire twist and solder that to one of the bottom ends of a diode.
take one resistor and twist and solder it to the other diode bottom end.
cut two 1" green wires and strip the ends.
with one of the short green wires twist to the bottom of the resistor.
lay it down so it looks like the picture in fig 1
now do this again but now instead of orange wire use blue on this one.
you should have two of fig1 one with orange wire on top and left bottom and a
green wire on the right bottom and one with blue wire on top and left bottom and a
green wire on the right bottom . Good now set them aside for now .
cut 2" of the black wire , and strip the ends.
cut the rest of the green wire in half , this should give you two 2" sections
and strip the ends.
as you see in fig 2 ,,, twist each end of the black wire on the top of the
a diode (stripe up) and solder (E) to (F).
then twist and solder the two green wires to the bottom of the diodes .
you should have fig 2
Now place the orange wires of the fig 1 to the left and the blue wires of the
fig 1 to the right so that both resistors are on the inside and this is where you
need two 2" sections of 1/4" heat shrink and slide them onto the resistors so
they cover the fig 1 diodes ,, now set fig 2 at the bottom and twist and solder
the 1" green wires to the tops of the fig 2 assembly (E) and (F).
SEE FIG 3:
you must use heat shrink to keep things from getting wet and it makes the unit stronger.
Heat and shrink as you go,, looking at fig 4 you will see that the heat shrink works from
the bottom up. now cut 2" section of the 1/8" heat shrink, slide it up the green wires
(G) and (H) of the fig 2 diodes first, then the heat shrink from fig 1 resisters over the
top of the black wire and the fig 2 diodes and going up with the same heat shrink
covering the resisters and the inboard diodes on the fig1. now two sections of 1/8"
heat shrink to cover the diodes and wires of (C) and (D) to cover the outside
diodes of the fig 1 assembly. then cut two 2" sections of 1/4" heat shrink and
cover the (A) and (B) wires and over half way down the fig 1 diodes.
The fun part is done now you should have ,,,
A ,,,, orange wire
B ,,,,, blue wire
C,,,,,, orange wire
D ,,,,,,,blue wire
G ,,,,,,, green wire
H ,,,,,,green wire
as seen in fig 4.
remove the top inside screws to your headlight , unplug it and set aside.
strip the ends of the LEDs neg - end and twist together and crimp a male bayonet
connector on the end. You can see the wires that go to the ground it is the
only double bayonet connector there, .
wire (A) goes to the left turn LED pos+ wire, splice and crimp solder-less butt connector
wire (B) goes to the right turn LED pos+ wire, splice and crimp solder-less butt connector
wire (C) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the orange with black wire .
wire (D) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the blue with black wire.
wire (G) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the orange with white wire.
wire (H) crimp a male bayonet connector then it goes to the blue with white wire.
.
print this one out (fig 5 ) and have on hand as a ref.
reinstall headlight . try it out .. if you have a fast turn signal flash then you will need to change your
flasher relay , to do that go to this link ..
https://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/general-motorcycle-tech-information-f14/leds-flasher-fix-t2900.htm
that should fix you up and your new leds should last 100,000 hours.
NOTE: some motorcycles have other color codes, so just go with the color wires that are on your bike.
good luck, drive safe,
Horseman (Jonathan)
Last edited by horseman8m on Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:33 am; edited 3 times in total
horseman8m- Number of posts : 1449
Age : 35
Location : valdosta , GA.
Registration date : 2008-02-09
dirtwarrior- Number of posts : 148
Age : 67
Location : Glendale, KY
Registration date : 2008-07-09
Re: LEDS turn signal wiring (two wire leds work as a three wire)
Got a question. To use this on something other then a bike, c/d goes to left/right turn from vehicle, and g/h to left/right park lights from vehicle?
Doc
Doc
Re: LEDS turn signal wiring (two wire leds work as a three wire)
moparmandjh wrote:Got a question. To use this on something other then a bike, c/d goes to left/right turn from vehicle, and g/h to left/right park lights from vehicle?
Doc
That's right , A (to the LEDs left), B (to the LEDs right)
C (from vehicle left turn wire), D (from vehicle right turn wire)
NOTE: on a car you don't have to have G/H diodes just wire in at the black E/F jumper wire.
this is because most motorcycles have a cutoff switch, when you turn on your turn signal the marker/park is turned off.
I hope this is whet you wanted to know and that i could help you. if there is anything you have in mind i will try to put
together a circuit that might help out.
Horse
horseman8m- Number of posts : 1449
Age : 35
Location : valdosta , GA.
Registration date : 2008-02-09
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