Darkside on Vulcan 500 LTD

Let me introduce myself.

I ride a 1997 Vulcan 500 LTD that I bought 11 years ago with less than 3,000 miles. Over the years I have accumulated over 118,000 miles on it and worn out many tires.

Because of the expense of motorcycle specific tires as well as frequent replacement I looked into going 'Darkside' as an alternative. I was understandability apprehensive about the idea but eventually put one on a few weeks ago. A 'Classic' LL800 M+S 165/80-R15. (Stock size 140/90-15)

So far I have about 450 miles on it and it seems to be 'coming together' regarding handling and general feel of it. The left tread/sidewall seems to have a slight 'ripple' that I can feel while cornering though. I'm still working with the pressures but so far 35psi seems to be pretty sweet. (I started at 40 and am currently at 33).

Here's hoping that I and the 'Darkside' have a long and safe relationship.

Ride Safe.
'Biker' Bill

Congrats and welcome to the darkside.


...............bobby

From what I've read in here, you might want to check your shock and swingarm bushings. That seems odd, just one side doing something different.

quadancer wrote:From what I've read in here, you might want to check your shock and swingarm bushings. That seems odd, just one side doing something different.

I've looked at the tire while riding and can see the 'ripple'. I didn't do this with the M/C tire. Also I did a complete restoration of this bike less than a year ago. The swingarm bearings and shocks were/are in good condition.

Sounds like someone owes you a new tire, man. At least you know it is the problem.

Here is an update on the Darkside 500LTD:

It's got about 15,000 miles on it and has been running well but with a couple of handling quirks that I just can't really iron out. Mainly I get a 'wobble' above 80mph sometimes, especially in strong winds. And I get the same wobble whenever I put my feet on the rear pegs while on a long ride when above 65mph. Swingarm bearings and steering bearings have been checked.

That said, the wear bars are showing through and it's time for a new tire. While I like the idea of inexpensive, long wearing tires I just can't justify the handling problems associated with it. The wear mileage is also not anywhere close to what I was expecting.

So, for a few dollars more than the CT I have put a new Dunlop 404 series tire on it in the stock size. We'll see how well it holds up mileage wise.

Ride safe.

It is very possible that it's your spokes, under the extra spinning load of the CT. When is the last time you had your wheels snugged and trued?

I inspect the spokes every time I change tires however I have never had them trued.

Regarding tire mass, the car tire seems to be much lighter than the bike tire.

You do well, but consider that the mass of the tire is placed differently, multiplied somewhat by centrifugal force.
When you say you inspect them, are you pinging them to check tension or just wiggling them by hand? It's a lot of
difference between a loose spoke and a tight one when sounding them, even though they feel tight by hand.
Proper truing can only be done with the tire dismounted, as the bead forces have to be eliminated.

You can go over ten bikes with a dowel and ping them, and I'll bet you'll find several loose spokes. People just don't
want to maintain their bikes like we used to, when you had to be a virtual mechanic if you wanted to ride. If there
are any loose spokes (dead thud), the wheel probably needs truing, regardless of tire type running on it.

You may be right on there. I usually just grab 'em with my fingers and give 'em a twist. Although I did find a loose spoke once this way I have never actually 'trued' the wheels or spokes. After all the miles I've put on it you'd think I would have taken the time to do this. Maybe I'll make this a wintertime project.

Thanks for the input.

It's time already for another tire. The Dunlop 404 went from new to no-tread in 6,000 miles!!!

So, I'm going to give the Darkside another go. I have procured a B.F. Goodrich 155/80-15 Radial T/A all weather tire and will install it tomorrow.

Also I will be inspecting the steering neck bearings. I checked the manual and it states to put a slight preload on the bearings (43 in-lb on the 'nut'). I only tightened the nut enough to remove the slack, no preload at all. Maybe this will help.

Current bike mileage: 139,000

Good Luck! I hope you do have better results with the BF Goodrich tire.

Update:

I have about 500 miles on the new tire and it feels much better than the previous car tire. Between the narrower tire and tightening the steering neck bearings something helped.

Update on the B/F Goodrich

I just got back from a 7 day/4,600 mile trip around the country and I can say that this new tire ROCKS!! A no time did i feel like there was a 'car tire' on it.

Regarding the unusual handling issue I believe that it has something to do with the Slipstreamer Enterprise II fairing and the AUX tank, not the rear tire.

Total mileage: 145,000

Well I found it flat yesterday. As I backed out of the garage something didn't feel right so I looked down at the rear tire and found it with less than full air pressure. Today I removed the tire, broke it down and found that one of the manufacturer's stickers inside the tire had rubbed a couple of holes in the tube. (my bike has spoked rims so tubes are required) This has never been a problem in the past but it is something I will inspect from this point forward. So, if you run tubes in your Darkside tire make sure all of the stickers, etc. are removed from inside the tire before mounting it.

Total mileage: 147,000

In November, at 12,000 miles, I checked tread depth: 4/32" in the center
Now, in late May, at 17,000 miles, the tread depth is just under 3/32".

I did lower the pressure from 32psi to 28psi. It was wearing a lot in the center of the tread and this seems to even it out. Handling and comfort are still good.

It's almost time for a new tire.

Total mileage: 157,000

Tread is gone at 19,000 miles.

Starting over with another one.

Starting tread depth is 11/32".
Starting mileage is 158,586 miles.

How much is the cost of the c/t compared to a motorcycle tire for your bike?

ROD

rrounds wrote:

How much is the cost of the c/t compared to a motorcycle tire for your bike?

I used to use a Dunlop 491 Elite II that would last 15-18k miles. I think they were around $200 when I could find them. But I haven't seen them in the OEM size in a long time.

The Darkside tire is a BF Goodrich 155/80-15 and was around $100 at a local tire shop.

Similar mileage. Half the price.

bikerbill wrote:

rrounds wrote:

How much is the cost of the c/t compared to a motorcycle tire for your bike?

I used to use a Dunlop 491 Elite II that would last 15-18k miles. I think they were around $200 when I could find them.  But I haven't seen them in the OEM size in a long time.

The Darkside tire is a BF Goodrich 155/80-15 and was around $100 at a local tire shop.

Similar mileage. Half the price.

On my bike(VT1100-T) I ran a Dunlop E3 180/70-16 that cost $205 and my 175/75-16 c/t set me back $153. The E3 would last 10k to 12k miles and I have over 20k on my c/t today and I don't know when this thing is going to wear out, its that good.

ROD

bikerbill wrote:
Regarding the unusual handling issue I believe that it has something to do with the Slipstreamer Enterprise II fairing and the AUX tank, not the rear tire.

I think fixed the handling issue.  I finally got around to installing 'anti-slosh' foam in the AUX fuel tank and it made all the difference in the world! I just got back from an Ironbutt style rally in Colorado and it handled everything I rode on with confidence. Mountain passes, switchbacks and sweepers. All are much more manageable now.

I have to make an observation about a quirk on the CT handling. When at high lean angles I can feel a difference to the bike when 'on the throttle' vs 'off the throttle'. I know it is because the contact patch changes directly with power input and it is very predictable.

After 75,000 miles and two flats I am going back to the M/C tire. Sorry guys.

Reasons include:
Much lower than expected tread wear
Since changing to a cast wheel (and removing the tube) the lack of a tube means the sidewalls seem softer and the handling less solid. This is causing shoulder pain issues. (especially when riding 2-up)

Others that have used this setup I hope you enjoy it.